Are you still looking for an amazing  natural mascara you could spend the rest of your life with? My personal hunt continues…

Recently I overheard two women talking about liking Bare Minerals mascara, so I checked it out online.  Their Flawless Definition mascara is $18.00 and ingredients look okay, except for the last-ingredient phenoxyethanol preservative (see August 2010 post, The Quest for the Perfect Mascara, Part 1).

Another authentically natural brand I discovered online is Whispering Seas Mascara by Coastal Classic Creations.  A little pricey at $25.00, but when you read the ingredients you’ll see why—it’s exceptionally natural.  And it actually rates a zero hazard rating on the Skin Deep site.  The Whispering Seas description says “no animal fibers”—which makes me wonder what animal source we are happily avoiding. Traditional drugstore mascaras generally use nylon or rayon fibers for the thickening factor.

So how do we get thicker lashes when we go natural without those pesky fibers?  We apply several coats, and/or powder our lashes first, say the manufacturers.   Just be ultra-careful if you do the powder-on-the-lashes thing—apply minimal powder (talc-free) with a cotton swab, keeping your eye closed.

Two other well-formulated mineral-based mascaras you might want to check out are by Jane Iredale and Afterglow,   both rated a 2 in the EWG cosmetic database.  Iredale’s Longest Lash Thickening and Lengthening Mascara comes in 5 colors and could win our virtual Perfect Mascara ribbon—except that its ample size retails for $35.00.   Afterglow’s  volumizing  Pure Soul mascara sells for $21.00. You may find it easier to purchase these two brands online since they are generally a little harder to find in local retail outlets.

What’s YOUR vote for the Perfect Natural Mascara?  I’d love to hear from you!  Leave a comment here or email:  Barbara@naturesface.com

Almost every woman I meet asks the same question, usually with intensity: Do you have (or recommend) a good mascara?  Now the key word in this question is good. From my collected mascara understanding, good means:  waterproof, won’t flake, smudge, splatter or clump, makes eyelashes look amazingly thick and curly, does no harm when it’s being removed, is free of toxic dyes and chemicals, and costs about $10.00 or less.  Is it possible for all these traits to exist in one miraculous mascara?  The answer is almost.  The decision involves some personal judgement calls, hence the intensity.

One that I have tried and liked is Honeybee Gardens Truly Natural Mascara, which meets the desirable price point of $9.99 and is available online or at natural food stores. It’s water-resistant and workout-proof and the color comes from minerals (not harmful dyes.)  Some other users have found it lacking in the volumizing department. It’s a fact that most natural mascaras are lighter in consistency than chemical-based traditional varieties, so an expectation adjustment is often required to make the natural switch.

Truly Natural Mascara is not waterproof, which is probably a good thing, since waterproof-ability usually comes from adhesives or waxes which can be difficult to remove completely, and too vigorous cleansing is not recommended for delicate lashes. (FYI, sleeping in eye makeup or its residue, or sharing mascara can cause styes or eye irritation.)

However, speaking of eye irritation, there is a somewhat controversial preservative—phenoxyethanol—that Honeybee Gardens lists as the last ingredient of their otherwise truly natural mascara.  Phenoxyethanol is a current popular replacement for paraben preservatives in personal care products. Some think this is a poor substitution since phenoxyethanol can be a skin and eye irritant, capable of depressing the central nervous system when absorbed into the skin or ingested—though evidently in larger quantity than one swoosh of mascara could contain.  Strange then, that it’s widely used in vaccines, medications and cosmetic products, including perfumes.  The amount in Truly Natural mascara is probably .05%- 1%, and Environmental Working Group’s cosmetic safety database, Skin Deep, rates the Honeybee Gardens mascara a 3 for “moderate hazard.”

While we’re examining potentially harmful ingredients, one to avoid is thimerosal (also spelled thimerosol).  It’s a form of mercury which is toxic by inhalation and skin contact.  It is also mystifyingly used in vaccines, ophthalmic and nasal products and tattoo inks as an antiseptic, antifungal agent.  If it’s on your mascara label, toss it out.  A good Rule of Lash is this:  if a mascara makes your eyes burn or sting, or has an acrid odor, return it or trash it.
More natural mascara discoveries ahead…Part 2 of the Perfect Mascara Quest will post soon!

There are makeovers and there are makeovers. Some, the dramatic tv variety, create a glamorous event-ready look while never letting the made-over person see herself in the mirror until the final reveal. I always worry that the happy recipient won’t have a clue how to recreate her amazing face when she’s home alone with her tote bag full of new cosmetics.  What good is an over-the-top makeover if it only benefits you for one day?

My kind of makeover is pretty much at the other end of the spectrum, aiming for an easy-to-do soft daytime look that can be amped up a little for evening when needed. And we use only natural, mineral-based cosmetics.

Clients usually watch every step in the mirror, asking lots of questions and interacting in color choices as we go along. If they want it to be a lesson, I’m happy to explain what I’m doing. If they are already well-practiced with their own makeup art, we often dialogue about products, colors and application tools for fine-tuning their cosmetics and skin care routine

Always the objective is for them to be happily self-sufficient, able to accomplish the application on a daily basis in their personal window of time they have in the morning. This is where the word minimal is elevated to utmost importance.

Here is a 9-step ( approx. 9-minute) mineral makeup app. that easily becomes a quick second-nature routine:

1- concealer—powder or cream, dot on blemishes/spots & blend

2- foundation—liquid or loose minerals, one or two light layers

3-eyeshadow—a light underbrow highlight & earthtone lid color

4- eyeliner—pencil or wet-brush powder, close to lash line

5- brow color—light fill-in w/ shade  same or lighter than brows

6-mascara−  good ingredient variety that needs only one coat

7-blush/bronzer—brush on  lightly to accent cheek bones

8- lip liner—a light line to match lip color

9- lip color—shade slightly darker then natural color of your lips

Assuming you are using all the right colors for your skin tone, this sequence can really max your look with a minimum of time. For ultra-minimalists or the severely time-crunched, try a short-but-powerful 5-step version with concealer, foundation, brow color, mascara and lip color.

You can see a YouTube video that shows me describing some of these steps during a mineral makeover. Thanks to wonderful  client-model Anna Tate and my husband, Martin Brossman, for his great video editing!

Need a jump start for your own makeup routine? Come in for our February Valentine special, a free mineral makeover with a cosmetics purchase of $30 or more at Nature’s Face makeup and skincare studio in Raleigh, NC.

If there were a contest for the world’s best mineral makeup brushes, my vote would go to the good looking, earth-friendly brushes by ecotools™.   These little works of art embody everything I ever wanted in a brush–at a refreshing low price!

What is it about these brushes that makes me so rapturous?  First, no animals are hurt or annoyed in their making. Bristles are 100% cruelty-free synthetic Taklon, which works surprisingly better than most animal hair brushes I have used, holding together nicely after washing. Taklon holds mineral powders very well, reducing the fly-around that we all want to avoid with minerals (as long as you tap off the excess before you apply). The softness is what I especially like, a great alternative to some of the scratchy mineral brushes out there that can irritate skin.

ecotools™ have bamboo handles, which is meaningful since bamboo is a highly-sustainable plant, having a low impact on the earth’s resources (it says so on the brush package).  And the ferrule section of the brush is made from recycled aluminum.

They come in a variety set of 5 with standard long handles, at an approximate price of $11 to $12 per set.  The long-handled set is pictured above.  You can see the 4-pc. short-handled set, which includes a nice little kabuki brush, at this Target.com link. Both sets come with a woven cotton and hemp carry bag.  Single powder brushes are also available.

The brushes are distributed in the U.S. by Paris Presents, a company which sells to big retail chains, so I am sending my makeup clients to Target or Walgreens to buy them.  They are also available online if you care to Google—or try  Drugstore.com .

Could there be any more benefits from this innovative eco-gem-of-a-product?  Yep.  Paris Presents has joined with 1% for the Planet, donating 1% of  annual sales from this item to environmental organizations that create a healthier place to live.

If you’re in the Raleigh, NC area, book a private mineral makeup try-on with  Barbara Carr, Mineral Makeup Artist and Certified Color Analyst.  Contact Barbara at naturesface.com.

Here’s the powdery truth: loose or compact minerals can settle into wrinkles and make dry skin look much drier (and older skin look much older.)  Does this mean that over-50’s can’t wear mineral foundation in powder form?  No, but it does mean that skin must be prepared properly and the minerals should be carefully chosen and applied with a light hand. Using the most appropriate application tools and methods is also a prerequisite to a younger, radiant effect that makes the most of minerals’ age-diffusing properties.

Though it sounds like a steep learning curve ahead, it actually boils down to a little product research and some practice.  If you’re ready to give that too-dry mineral makeup you bought a second chance, try following these  application solutions from my esthetician’s bag of all-natural tricks:

1. Apply a nourishing natural serum such as pure hyaluronic acid which tones and plumps the skin, serving as a natural primer.  If you are opting for natural choices, you’ll want to avoid the harsh, pore-clogging chemical-based primers that many  cosmetic companies sell.

2. Use a natural moisturizer that absorbs nicely and doesn’t just sit on top of the skin. Remember the point of using mineral makeup is to let your skin breathe.  Too rich or heavy moisturizer will defeat your skin’s purpose and cause mineral makeup to be streaky or uneven.

3.  After the moisturizer is absorbed (5-10 minutes) pat a little bit of liquid jojoba  (I recommend Hoba Care) on more noticeably wrinkled areas like upper lip, laugh lines and crow’s feet.  Let it absorb.

4. Mix some loose mineral foundation  with a dab of moisturizer in a little dish or in the palm of your hand to make your own liquid makeup.  Apply lightly with fingers using gentle strokes.  You can mix up a small batch for the week and keep it in a lidded jar.  There are also excellent  liquid mineral foundation formulas available.

5.    With a flat concealer brush, use a mineral powder in a color slightly lighter than your foundation color as a concealer.  Press it onto any dark spots or visible capillaries that need camouflage.

6.    Using a mineral powder brush, tap off excess minerals and apply one or two very light layers evenly, starting at perimeter and ending with under eyes and upper lip when there is less powder on the brush, since you don’t want heavy powder  in those areas.  Look for your minerals to “set themselves” in about 10 minutes as the warmth of your face delivers a nice “melting” effect on the mineral particles.

Interested in a deeper lesson in mature skin makeup application?  I’m working on an e-book that covers the whole process with some photos!   Look for the announcement in January 2010 on my website –www.naturesface.com

Almost every woman I meet at social and business events has tried mineral cosmetics.  I know because when they find out what I do, they quickly tell me, “I already use mineral makeup.”  Maybe they are trying to relate to me, or maybe they are afraid I’m going to pull some makeup out of my purse and try to sell it to them. (Future contacts, please have no fear—I’m totally non-pushy—and besides, I couldn’t fit the 42 shades I carry in my purse. ) The funny thing is, for a lot of the self-proclaimed mineral wearers I have met, I  incorrectly guessed that they were wearing traditional foundation since I didn’t see any spark of the candlelight glow that makes minerals so delightful.  (And, I admit it, I secretly wished I could get them into my chair!)

Now when I say glow, I don’t mean shine.  To me, glow is the subtle fusion of light reflection and the “lit from within” enhancement that a perfectly color-matched, healthy foundation and blush accomplishes on the skin when, (a) it’s a good product, and (b) it’s applied properly.  Evidently significant numbers of women, based on the percentage I have talked to, have abandoned some of the well-known mineral foundations because they found them too….well, shiny.

The deeper reveal is this: most under-50’s with smooth skin want to look dry, and most over-50’s would love to look more moist and dewy.  There are some great liquid mineral foundations that can be used alone or as a concealer layer under brushed-on minerals.  Some, like Mineralogie’s Liquid Hydration are perfect for dry / mature skin.  Monave has a matte liquid foundation that keeps oily shine under control.

Monitoring the shine factor

In loose or pressed mineral foundation, it is high mica content that causes the overly shiny look that younger, oilier skin wants to avoid.  Mica (whose Latin name micare means  glitter) combines with iron oxides to give color to mineral makeup.   Bismuth oxychloride is another component that adds a somewhat-shiny pearlized quality to foundation formulas; it’s one of the more expensive ingredients, giving a creamy feel with good adherence.

Obviously, mineral companies have been adapting to under-50 anti-shine awareness by introducing matte foundation formulas or up-selling mineral veil finishing powders that give a matte finish. These setting powders generally contain absorbent natural ingredients like cornstarch, rice powder, arrowroot powder, serecite,  kaolin clay and silica.  Just Buyer-Beware yourself with any powder products:  safe application with the right brushes is ultra-important to keep from ingesting particles such as silica (derived from sand, and ground to fine powder) that are not meant to enter your lungs.

Makeup primers are hot right now, an under makeup solution to combat oiliness.  However, even those made by otherwise naturally oriented companies tend to be loaded with chemical ingredients that, among other negatives, can clog pores or cause breakouts. Try good quality mineral foundation and see if you can handle oiliness with blotting papers during the day and a light touch up with your mineral brush for evening.

What is your personal degree of glow?  Amp up your radiance with a customized makeup consultation with Barbara Carr.  You’re welcome to bring in your current makeup to review ingredients  and analyze the colors to choose the best for your skin tone!  Contact Nature’s Face for an appointment.

Among the vast assortment of mineral cosmetics on the market, there are very few lines that represent a realistic full spectrum of skin tones.  When I originally set out to study mineral artistry and choose products to use, my main criteria were:
1. a color range that matches and works well on every possible client
2. moderate pricing
3. high-quality natural ingredients
4. made in the U.S. by a company advanced enough to go worldwide, small enough to be able to talk to someone on the phone when you need them.

Surprisingly, I found two companies that actually met my lofty criteria. and I absolutely love them. I’ve been happily ordering and reordering for several years now–since the ultimate proof of worthiness is customer satisfaction.  My customers are exceptionally devoted to their makeup, and they look fantastic!

A little bit about these magical companies...

Mineralogie www.mineralogie.biz (pronounced “min-er-ahl-oh-gee”) is a Dallas, TX division of Demaur Cosmetics originated by makeup artist Mary Van. The range of color is astounding, with new fashion shades each season.  Though not everything in the line is natural, there are plenty of natural formula items, with more being added all the time. Especially noteworthy are Liquid Hydration, a light liquid mineral foundation, and  SPF 26 loose foundation—both come in 31 colors from lightest to darkest. Plus they have great matte or shimmer blushes in 16+ colors, and outstanding lip and eye pencils.  View current colors on the Mineralogie website, accessible from naturesface.com.  Click on Where To Buy and click on your state on the map.  An in-person try-on is highly recommended, but if you’re not near a retailer, a limited selection of products and colors is available to purchase online from www.mineralmakeupsource.com.

Monave www.monave.com ( pronounced mow-nah-vay) is based in Baltimore MD, owned by Deb Bilezikian, whose skin sensitivity and problems in matching multi-cultural skin tones lead to the development of an ultra-pure mineral foundation which leaves out potentially irritating ingredients. The foundation colors are named after the people they were formulated for, in powder, liquid and cream formulas.  Their loose mineral concealer foundation give heavier coverage.  95% of the line is vegan, and their lipsticks and glosses are yummy customer favorites.  I stock Monave foundation samples, lots of lipsticks, some blushes and many shades of cream concealer–truly the best natural concealer I’ve ever used.

If you’re in the Raleigh, NC area, contact Nature’s Face for a makeup session with Barbara Carr and have your skin tone expertly matched!

Clients will often show me their current mineral makeup when they want to fine tune their application and colors. Typically, they have been using mineral makeup for some time but realize they are not experiencing the optimum enhancement that minerals can bestow.  One look at their foundation inevitably reveals that their mineral foundation is not a good match for their skin color.  They may be unknowingly wearing a warm (yellow-gold) foundation which competes with their own cool (blue-pink) skin tone.  The result is a flat, less flattering effect which drains their natural radiance. Or they may be a golden girl wearing pink-y foundation. Or other variations of too light or too dark for their particular skin tone.

A  golden face on top of a very pink neck is a jarring combination.  Though covering up “the pink” is a prevalent maneuver in makeup artistry, it’s a roadblock on the road to maximum glow.  When you go against someone’s natural coloring, you see the negative difference in their overall image—eyes don’t look as bright, features seem to recede, and the person looks sallow or tired.  Yes, the ill effects of Pink Camouflage can be strategically fought by strong application of eye color, blush and lipstick, but this is not everyone’s realistic everyday makeup routine.  It’s so much more harmonious to follow our innate colors and do any redness-concealing within that palette.

In fact, a basic color analysis is the first step to a perfect foundation match.  Are you warm or cool?  Here are two quick indicators:

1.  Look at the palm of your hand against a sheet of white paper: warm skin is characterized by a yellow-gold palm, and cool skin has obvious pink or subtle blue coloration in the palm.

2.  Also look at the veins in your wrist, if you can see them.  If they look turquoise or green, you’re warm; if they look blue, you’re cool.

The best method for matching foundation is making three or more swipes of possible foundation colors with a cotton-tip applicator at the jawline. The object is to identify the one that seems to disappear into the skin–that’s your match!

More to come about finding perfect mineral colors for all skin tones.   If you are in the Raleigh, NC area you can book a private color analysis consultation with Barbara Carr, Licensed Esthetician /Mineral Makeup Artist / Certified Color Analyst. Call 919-845-4385 or email: barbara@naturesface.com

Intending to upgrade your cosmetics and personal care products to natural, healthier versions? Now is the perfect time to begin refreshing your body and facial care regimen by choosing “clean” alternatives–clean is the new industry buzzword for chemical-free natural and organic products containing carefully-sourced natural ingredients.

When we eliminate products with toxic chemical ingredients that tax the immune system, related skin problems such as rashes, breakouts, sensitivity and dryness will often disappear. Gentler harmonious skin care allows your skin to repair itself and thrive as the organ of respiration and elimination that it is created to be.

Red Flags
Though it’s great to see a growing marketplace of affordable natural products, it takes more than the words natural or organic on eye-catching green labels to prove that the content
is authentic. Some brands contain few natural ingredients and a large percentage of chemical fillers. Your safest path is choosing products from well-established companies who exceed industry standards.

To select the ones that are legitimately natural, look for complete ingredients listings. Some so-called natural and organic products use misleading headings like “active ingredients” and “key ingredients” to avoid listing harsh chemical components and preservatives. You’ll find this on package labels and website product descriptions.

On the other hand, don’t be turned away by long, unfamiliar ingredient names—though they may sound like petroleum derivates, they may simply be Latin names for beneficial herbs and botanicals. When in doubt, look them up at wikipedia.org. or see the glossary provided at avalonorganics.com for comprehensive definitions.

Where to Start
You can do your product makeover gradually, replacing items as they run out. Anything that stays on your skin long-term, especially those creams and lotions that we rub in, like sunscreens, body oils, moisturizers, eye creams, skin repair serums and deodorant, should be the first to be replaced. If you wear makeup, add foundation, blush, eye shadow and lipstick to your list for immediate healthy upgrade. Cosmetics pigmented with natural minerals are a healthier alternative to those with petroleum-derived FD&C colors. A helpful guide for assessing particular brands is cosmeticsdatabase.org, where products are given a hazard rating—best choices are rated 0-3.

Reliable Sources
Turn to major brand websites for in-depth information and price selection. You can shop on-line or scout out your choices for local shopping at natural food stores, where you can try testers and have questions answered by staff.
These resources have some excellent products:

Aubrey Organics (aubrey-organics.com) – certified organic 100% natural hair, skin/ body care.
Lavera Naturkosmetik (lavera.com).- certified natural cosmetics, family body care, sunscreens.
Kiss My Face (kissmyfacewebstore.com) - .natural & organic body/beauty care, cosmetics.

Adjusting Expectations
It’s helpful to know beforehand that chemical-free formulations may not be uniform in color and texture. Lotions may separate and need a good shake before using. And naturally preserved creams and liquids usually have a shelf life of 1 year or less.

When you start using natural skin care, you may experience some breakouts or flaking. This is healthy detoxification that should soon disappear.

Despite the slight learning curve, going natural is definitely worth it. Using truly pure products can make a delightful difference for your skin—and help widen the path to a cleaner, healthier planet.

Are you ready to make the switch to natural skin care?  Enjoy a relaxing spa facial with Barbara Carr and experience the difference natural/organic products can make. Find details at www.naturesface.com

A middle-aged woman sat down nervously in the tall director’s chair at the natural food store where I was doing mineral makeovers. “How do you clean your brushes?” she asked.  I explained my almost-obsessive method that includes many steps of sanitation plus clean brushes for each client. She visibly relaxed, telling me that all her life she had wanted to have a makeover like she observed in stores, but the possibility of lurking germs had always stopped her.  Was she overly-phobic or really smart?

Today, I am leaning toward really smart.  I just had a colleague tell me that one of her clients came down with eye herpes. (Eek, I had to look it up–the photos are deeply attention-getting.) She had traced its cause to a department store makeup session.

Doesn’t this send your mind racing through the possible culprit cosmetics?  Mascara, eye liner, eye shadow.  Wooden pencils, for example, must be thoroughly sharpened after each use to be sanitary–ideally with a clean sharpener–which is too much to expect in a quick turnover makeup application. (Bring your own sharpener?)  And community use mascara should ONLY be applied with a new disposable mascara wand and never “double-dipped” into the container. Though brush cleaner is usually sprayed on makeup artists’ brushes, it may be used too sparingly to effectively kill bacteria.  If cleaner is used too heavily, natural fanatics like me imagine, irritating chemicals can remain on the brush to be swept onto the next person’s face.

NB: I’ve been on the lookout for a natural, non-toxic spray cleaner and just found Organic Lavender Brush Cleanser, to order online at www.afterglowcosmetics.com

Because of makeup, oil and bacteria buildup, your personal brushes should be cleaned at least once a week with non-toxic brush cleaner or 91% rubbing alcohol, and washed thoroughly every 3-4 weeks. The best quick, in-between cleaning method is saturating a folded-up paper towel with the alcohol or brush cleaner and wiping the brush along it, making many strokes in the same direction, which maintains the shape of the brush.

In addition to clean applicators, watch out for uncovered makeup display palettes in stores that get swiped with unwashed fingers and swirled by questionably-clean brushes. The solution?  Ask for small sample sizes and let the artist work with them and your own applicators.  Or take samples home where you can try them in daylight and incandescent light for better decision making.  Several good mineral lines have sample sizes available to order online.  Remember, you’re in charge of your face!

Schedule a personal makeover session with Barbara Carr and her very clean brushes by emailing barbara@naturesface.com.